Here’s a breakdown of essential and recommended climbing gear by climbing style: bouldering, sport climbing, traditional (trad) climbing, and ice climbing (yes, you can do this in a few spots around the state, including along the Columbia River Gorge!).
Each list includes essential items first, followed by recommended items to enhance safety, comfort, and performance.
BOULDERING
Bouldering involves climbing short, often challenging routes (problems) without ropes, focusing on strength, technique, and control.
Essential Gear:
• Climbing Shoes: Tight-fitting, sticky rubber shoes for grip and precision.
• Chalk and Chalk Bag: Helps with grip by reducing sweat on hands.
• Crash Pad: Portable pad for protection in case of falls, usually placed below the climbing area.
Recommended Gear:
• Brush: For cleaning holds and removing excess chalk to maintain grip.
• Tape or Finger Sleeves: For finger protection and injury prevention on sharp or rough holds.
• Climbing Pants/Shorts: Flexible and durable for maximum range of motion.
• Liquid Chalk: Reduces initial moisture before climbing and reduces airborne chalk indoors.
SPORT CLIMBING
Sport climbing involves routes with pre-installed bolts where climbers can clip into for protection.
Essential Gear:
• Climbing Shoes: Comfortable but precise shoes with a balance of sensitivity and support.
• Chalk and Chalk Bag: For maintaining grip throughout the climb.
• Harness: To secure the climber to the rope.
• Rope: A dynamic rope, typically 60-70 meters, depending on route length.
• Belay Device: Assisted-braking or tubular device for managing the rope.
• Quickdraws: Short slings with carabiners to clip into bolts along the route (usually 10-12).
• Helmet: Protects against rockfall and head bumps, especially outdoors.
Recommended Gear:
• Climbing Tape: For finger protection and minor repairs.
• Rope Bag: To protect the rope from dirt and debris.
• Stick Clip: Useful for clipping into the first bolt from the ground, reducing risk at the start.
• Nut Tool: Useful for removing bolts or cleaning holds in certain areas.
• Belay Glasses: To reduce neck strain while belaying.
TRADITIONAL (TRAD) CLIMBING
Trad climbing relies on placing removable protection (gear) along the route to protect against falls.
Essential Gear:
• Climbing Shoes: Versatile shoes with a good balance of comfort and sensitivity, especially for multi-pitch climbs.
• Chalk and Chalk Bag: Helps maintain grip on longer or more challenging routes.
• Harness: Comfortable with gear loops for holding protection.
• Rope: Dynamic rope, usually longer (70-80 meters) for multi-pitch and trad routes.
• Belay Device: Tubular device with guide mode for multi-pitch climbs.
• Helmet: Essential for outdoor routes to protect against rockfall.
• Protection:
• Cams: Spring-loaded devices that fit into cracks.
• Nuts: Metal wedges that fit into narrow cracks.
• Hexes: Larger, hollow pieces used in larger cracks and are lighter than cams.
• Carabiners: Locking carabiners for securing belay devices and anchors.
• Alpine Draws: Extendable quickdraws to reduce rope drag on winding routes.
Recommended Gear:
• Climbing Tape: For finger and hand protection on sharp cracks.
• Anchor Building Gear: Slings, cordelette, and extra locking carabiners.
• Nut Tool: Essential for removing stuck protection.
• Climbing Knife: For cutting slings or rope if needed.
• Weather Gear: Lightweight jacket and extra layers for variable conditions.
• Headlamp: In case the climb or descent extends past daylight.
ICE CLIMBING
Ice climbing involves ascending ice formations (such as frozen waterfalls) using specialized equipment.
Essential Gear:
• Climbing Shoes (Mountaineering Boots): Insulated, stiff-soled boots compatible with crampons.
• Crampons: Spiked devices that attach to boots, designed for ice.
• Ice Axes (Ice Tools): Specialized tools with sharp picks for gripping ice.
• Helmet: Critical for protection against falling ice and debris.
• Harness: Usually adjustable for thick clothing layers.
• Rope: Dynamic or semi-static, depending on route type and terrain.
• Belay Device: Assisted-braking or tubular device.
Recommended Gear:
• Ice Screws: For creating protection points in ice.
• Screaming Barfies Warmers: Chemical hand warmers to keep extremities warm.
• Climbing Pants and Jacket: Insulated, water-resistant, and flexible.
• Gaiters: Protects legs and ankles from ice and moisture.
• Carabiners and Quickdraws: Locking carabiners and extendable quickdraws.
• Waterproof Gloves (Two Pairs): One for climbing and a thicker pair for belaying.
• Dry Bag: To keep gear dry in wet and icy conditions.
• Weather Gear: Extra layers and a hardshell jacket for protection from snow, wind, and moisture.
• Avalanche Gear: Beacon, shovel, and probe if climbing in avalanche-prone areas.
These lists cover essential and recommended gear by climbing type, ensuring you’re prepared with the right equipment for safety, performance, and enjoyment on the rock, wall, or ice. Each style has its unique needs, and investing in the appropriate gear can make a significant difference in safety and comfort.